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Know your system · Water heater

No hot water: safe checks before you call

Short version: no hot water usually comes down to a few things: a tripped breaker, a pilot light that went out, a temperature dial that got turned down, a tripped reset button, or a heating element that quit. Start with the dial and the breaker. If a check means opening an electrical cover you are not comfortable around, or gas work beyond relighting a pilot by the heater's own instructions, have a pro take it from there.

FIELD STUDY / 11No hot water? Check these first
No hot water? Check these firstChecks before you call: the temperature dial, the water heater breaker on electric heaters, the pilot light on gas heaters with a standing pilot, and the red reset button on electric heaters. Still no hot water: call a pro.1Temperature dial2Breaker (electric)3Pilot light (gas)4Reset button (electric)Still no hot water? Call a pro
Schematic field study. Not to scale or an installation plan.
If a CO alarm sounds: Get everyone outside immediately. Leave the exit door open as you go only if doing so doesn’t slow evacuation. Call 911 from outside, account for everyone, and stay out until responders say it’s safe. Don’t stay inside or go back in to open doors or windows.

Electric: check the breaker first

If the panel is wet, damaged, hot, buzzing, sparking or smells burnt, stay away. Do not touch it or reset a breaker. Call an electrician. For smoke or fire, move away and call emergency services.

FIELD STUDY / 11Electric: how to spot the tripped breaker
Electric: how to spot the tripped breakerStep 1: a breaker panel. Step 2: the water heater breaker is a double breaker, two slots with one tied handle; when tripped it sits in the middle, out of line with the others; a close-up compares ON, Tripped and OFF. Step 3: a wet, buzzing, damaged or burnt-smelling panel means stay away and call a pro. Step 4: a breaker that trips again is left off and a pro is called.Find the water heater breakerONTrippedOFFDouble breaker, stuck mid-wayWet? Buzzing?Burnt smell?Stay away. Call a pro.Again?Trips again? Call a proONTrippedOFFSpot a tripped double breaker

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Find the breaker labeled water heater. It is usually a double breaker: two slots with one handle tied across. A tripped one sits in the middle, out of line with the others. Push it fully off, then firmly back on, once. If it trips again, leave it off and call a pro. A breaker that trips again is pointing to an electrical problem, and another reset will not fix it. Do not guess which breaker feeds the heater.

Electric: the reset button

Electric water heaters have a red reset button on the upper thermostat. It trips when the water gets too hot. Follow the heater's own reset instructions. Turn off power at the correctly identified breaker before opening any access panel. Switching a breaker off does not prove an exposed wire is safe to touch. If you cannot safely identify the circuit or reach the reset without touching electrical parts, leave it to a pro. Stop and call a pro if the water is scalding hot, the tank is hissing or leaking, or you smell burning. Replace the access covers before restoring power, then allow the recovery time in the manual. If it trips again, call a pro: the heater has a problem that another press will not fix.

Gas: the pilot light

To see the pilot, take off the outer cover at the bottom of the heater, just under the gas control. Most covers lift off, and some need a screwdriver. Behind it is a small glass window. Look through the glass: a small blue flame wrapped around the tip of the thermocouple (the thin copper rod beside the pilot) means the pilot is lit. Do not open the inner door behind the glass. It is sealed. Put the outer cover back on when you are done.

FIELD STUDY / 11Gas: how to check the pilot light
Gas: how to check the pilot lightStep 1: the bottom of a gas tank water heater. The gas control sits above the burner area; the outer cover is lifted off, showing the sealed inner door with a small glass window. Some covers need a screwdriver. Step 2: two close-ups through the glass side by side. Left, labeled Lit: a small blue flame with a little yellow at the tip wraps around the tip of the thermocouple, a thin copper rod. Right, labeled Out: the same pilot and thermocouple with no flame. The main burner below is off in both. Step 3: the two common gas controls side by side: the knob type, with a red gas knob on top, a temperature dial on the front and a red igniter button, and the electronic type, with one round knob, a status light and a square igniter button. If the pilot is out, follow the lighting label on the heater exactly. Step 4: no flame again after relighting: call a pro.CoverLift off the outer coverLitOutBlue flame: lit. None: outKnobElectronicOut? Follow the labelOutagainOut again? Call a proLitOutBlue flame: lit. None: out

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Read the field notes
  • To see the pilot, take off the outer cover at the bottom of the heater, under the gas control. Most lift off; some need a screwdriver. Look through the small glass window behind it. Do not open the inner door behind the glass; it is sealed. Put the outer cover back on when you are done.
  • Lit: a small blue flame, maybe a little yellow at the tip, wrapped around the tip of the thermocouple (the thin copper rod beside the pilot). The big burner below only lights when the heater is heating.
  • Gas controls come in two common kinds: a knob type, with a gas knob on top (OFF, PILOT, ON), a temperature dial and a red igniter button, and an electronic type, with one round knob, a status light and a square igniter button. Your heater's lighting label says which steps to follow.
  • Only for a heater with a standing pilot. Follow the lighting and waiting steps printed on that heater exactly. Do not use them on a model with a hot surface or spark igniter.
  • If the pilot goes out again, or went out after roof work or a storm, leave it off, call a pro and make sure your CO alarms work. Smell gas: get out and call from outside.
Schematic field study. Not to scale or an installation plan.

If your heater has a standing pilot and it is out, follow the lighting and waiting instructions printed on that heater exactly. If you are in doubt at any step, stop and call a pro. Do not apply those steps to a model with a hot surface or spark igniter. If the pilot goes out again after you relight it, leave it off, call a pro, and make sure your CO alarms work. A pilot that keeps going out needs a technician to find out why; relighting it again will not fix it. A pilot that went out after roof work or a storm can mean a venting problem: do not relight it, and contact a qualified professional. During an active CO alarm or suspected exposure, follow the emergency steps above; do not relight the pilot or stay to troubleshoot. If you smell gas at any point, leave the house and call your gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not operate switches, open windows, or go back in.

Both: the thermostat setting

Check whether the dial got turned down. If it was, set it back to HOT and give the tank time to heat back up. Turning the dial up can sometimes help for a little while, but hotter water raises the risk of scalding, so be careful. If the dial is already at HOT and the water is still not hot, have a pro take a look. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends 120°F to reduce tap-water scald risk. Even 120°F water can burn with prolonged contact, and hotter water burns much faster. Follow the heater's instructions. If your household needs a different storage temperature, ask a qualified pro about scald protection rather than guessing at the dial.

FIELD STUDY / 11Both: how to check the thermostat setting
Both: how to check the thermostat settingThe front of a knob-type gas control on a gas water heater: a red gas knob on top, a red igniter button, and a temperature dial marked VAC, HOT and VERY HOT. Step 1: the dial was bumped to VAC. Step 2: set it back to HOT. Step 3: a clock: give the tank time to heat back up. Step 4: the dial at HOT beside a faucet whose water is still not hot enough: call a pro.HOTVACVERY HOTDial bumped to VAC?HOTVACVERY HOTSet it back to HOTHOTVACVERY HOTGive it time to heat upHOTVACVERY HOTStill not hot? Call a proHOTVACVERY HOTSet it back to HOT

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When it is the heater itself

On an electric heater, hot water that runs out fast can mean a heating element has failed, as Lennox notes, though how much hot water you use and the settings matter too. A pro can test it. Sediment in the tank can lower efficiency and make popping or rumbling noises. If your tank is more than 6 years old and has not been flushed in the last few years, flushing it is not recommended. Built-up sediment can be part of what keeps an old tank sealed, and stirring it loose can start a leak. If the tank itself is leaking, have a pro look at replacing it. Lennox gives about 8 to 12 years as a typical tank life, but that is an average, not an expiration date for your heater.

Where to go from here

If you still do not have hot water after these checks, then it is recommended to have a pro evaluate the situation and mention what you have done so far. This will help get the problem solved quicker and get the hot water back.

Before an emergency, make a household exit plan so everyone knows where to go and who needs help.

Sources

The advice against flushing a tank older than about 6 years that has not been flushed in the last few years comes from field experience.

Lennox supports the troubleshooting checks and its typical 8-12 year tank lifespan. Lennox is best known for heating and cooling; it began selling its own line of water heaters in 2026 through a joint venture with Ariston. Its suggested 125-140°F range conflicts with CPSC's scald guidance, so this page uses CPSC's 120°F recommendation instead. Recovery time and reset steps depend on the heater's own instructions.

CPSC's CO questions and answers support the evacuation, outside emergency call, headcount and no-re-entry steps.

CO response checked October 9, 2026. Troubleshooting and scald guidance last rechecked September 29, 2026.

The Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI) supports the heat, buzzing, sparks and burning-smell warning signs. The wet or damaged panel limit and the no-repeat-reset limit are conservative limits, not manufacturer text. Electrical warning signs checked September 30, 2026.

When in doubt, call a pro. If you are not comfortable checking something, or you are not sure, please reach out to a pro. Some of these issues can be made worse, more expensive to fix later, or dangerous.